Chine collé – The final outcome

SF8Continuing on with my chine collé flower design (see previous posts here and here) I adhered a simple iron-on Wispa Weft to the back of some of the prints and tried to machine stitch around some of the flowers.

I quickly found that was beyond my capabilities.  I haven’t been practicing my free-motion stitching for such a long time and I’m very slow and wobbly, so it’s back on my list of things to work on as I’m keen to add stitching to my prints in future.  OK, back to hand-stitching this time.

SF9I experimented with 2 different threads, a plain deep red and a variegated Perle 5.  My chine collé is a little crumpled due to the method of transfer I used, detailed previously, so the black ink isn’t 100% solid and I’ve no problem with that.  It’s adding to the textural effect.

LP-JSS-1I recently learned how to make a Japanese stab binding book in a class with Liz Powell and my aim for the above print is to make a cover for a slightly more complex version of this type of book than I made in the class.  The idea is to have a separate front and back cover with single bound sheets (not folded) and front and back hinges to enable the book to fully open.  The sample shown here has a soft cover that would be bent back and folded when the book is used.  I want a hard cover, but it has to open up properly.

So my finished book front consists of medium weight cardboard insert  with hinge section, covered by my hand-stitched print.  The print has been ‘aged’ with metallic waxes and satin varnished to a light sheen.  The hinged back has been covered with Nepalese hand-made paper, aged and varnished.  There are 34 inner leaves of my own hand-made paper formed from the offcuts of my excess Kozo paper prints created during my last OCA course.  Everything is recyclable!  The stab binding is a double length of 16/2 linen thread.

SF10Above: Stab binding template.  For this type of construction it’s important to have an odd number of holes to facilitate the correct flow of front, back and over stitches to ensure the start and end threads meet at the finish point.

SF11Above: You can see the stab binding along the front edge, with the back looking identical, and the construction from the top.  This second photo clearly shows how effective the hinges are and how well the book opens up.

SF12The finished book – and those hinges really work!!  I’ll put it in the book press for a few days to ensure it sits flat and true.  The pages were previously pressed so there should be no loosening of the binding.

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About Claire B

I'm a passionate printmaker, paper-maker and a poor sketcher (which I'm working to improve). I've stitched from early childhood and am a perpetual student, loving learning and participating in everything creative.
This entry was posted in My books & journals, My Creative Pieces, My prints and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to Chine collé – The final outcome

  1. fibresofbeing says:

    Great result. I like the movement in the front cover, and all the colours, paper, front and back, work well together.
    Were the pages made this size or did you tear them down?

    • Claire B says:

      I made the pages first using an A5 mold & deckle, then I designed the print around the size I needed for the cover. I’m especially pleased with my home-printed tissue collage within the flowers. My very own unique chine colle paper.

      • fibresofbeing says:

        I didn’t realise that was your own tissue. It works really well – just the right scale of pattering.

        • Claire B says:

          The very thin Japanese calligraphy paper we both bought on Saturday should be able to be used for chine colle and, if attached to a carrier sheet, will go through the printer. So I’ll be able to continue making my own designs in the future, or even just colouring it with water-colour paints before using. Sounds like a fun day adding colours and patterns to some of the sheets.

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